Skincare for Black and Brown Skin Tones

Dermatology as a field has historically focused its research, training imagery, and product development on lighter skin tones. This has real consequences: skin conditions in Black and Brown patients are more often misdiagnosed, recommended ingredients are sometimes poorly suited, and guidance around sun protection has been inconsistently applied. This lesson addresses skin health for melanin-rich skin directly and honestly.

• Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH): in melanin-rich skin, almost any inflammation — acne, eczema, a scratch, a laser treatment — can leave a lasting dark mark. Preventing inflammation is therefore far more important than it is in lighter skin tones. Daily SPF and gentle, non-irritating products reduce PIH risk significantly.
• Ingredients for PIH: niacinamide (5%), azelaic acid (10–20%), vitamin C (stable forms, 10–15%), tranexamic acid (2–5%), kojic acid (1–4%). All have evidence; none are quick. Expect 8–12 weeks minimum.
• Keloid-prone skin: certain procedures (aggressive chemical peels, some laser settings, microneedling at high intensity) carry a higher risk of keloid formation in darker skin tones. Always discuss with a derm experienced in skin of colour.
• Sunscreen: equally important regardless of skin tone. Choose chemical filters or tinted minerals to avoid white cast.
• Finding a good provider: look for dermatologists with specific training or interest in skin of colour. The Skin of Color Society maintains a provider directory.
• Eczema and psoriasis in darker skin: these can present with purple or grey-brown discolouration rather than the classic red, making them harder to recognise and often leading to delayed diagnosis.