Dermelloa
Intermediate·Conditions·4 min read

Understanding Acne: Causes and What Helps

The four drivers of acne, which ingredients have real evidence, and the patience the process genuinely requires.

Acne is not a hygiene problem and it is rarely about a single cause. It emerges from four overlapping factors, which is why a one-ingredient fix usually disappoints.

The four drivers

  1. Excess oil (sebum), often hormonally driven.
  2. Clogged pores, where dead cells and oil form a plug — this is where comedogenic ingredients can contribute.
  3. Bacteria (C. acnes) that thrive in clogged, oil-rich pores.
  4. Inflammation, which turns a clog into a red, tender spot.

Ingredients with real evidence

  • Salicylic acid () — oil-soluble, so it works inside pores. Good for blackheads and whiteheads.
  • Benzoyl peroxide — reduces C. acnes and inflammation; one of the best-evidenced over-the-counter actives.
  • Topical retinoids — normalise turnover so pores clog less; strong evidence for both acne and aging.
  • — helps with oil regulation and redness, and is gentle enough to pair with the above.

Frequently asked

For some people, high-glycaemic diets and possibly skim dairy are associated with more breakouts. The effect varies between individuals.

Knowledge check

0 / 2 correct
  1. 1. Which is NOT one of the four drivers of acne?

  2. 2. Why does salicylic acid suit acne-prone skin?

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